Wine Columnist, My VanCity
Sam is a passionate wine enthusiast and writer covering the BC wine and food scene for My VanCity.
Originally published on My VanCity — by Sam Hauck. Republished with permission.
Another week, another tasting at Franco's Liquor Store in Kelowna. This time, the spotlight was on Nebbiolo—one of Italy's most prestigious (and temperamental) grape varieties. Often called the “king of grapes,” Nebbiolo is primarily grown in the Piedmont region, where its expression shifts dramatically depending on the local terroir.
A Brief History and Geography of Nebbiolo
Nebbiolo's roots in Piedmont stretch back to the 13th century. Its name likely derives from nebbia, the Italian word for fog—an autumnal mist that settles over the Langhe hills during harvest.
Northern Piedmont (Ghemme and Gattinara) tends to produce lighter, more delicate styles, with soft tannins and notes of sour cherry, rosehip, tobacco leaf, and black tea. Southern strongholds of Barolo, Barbaresco, and Roero yield more powerful wines with firm tannins and deeper flavours—black cherry, tar, licorice, rose, and spice.
What Makes Nebbiolo Unique?
Nebbiolo walks a fine line between light and full-bodied. Its pale ruby hue might mislead you into expecting something delicate, but its high tannin and acid levels offer structure and longevity. Young Nebbiolo often displays rose, cherry, leather, clay, and anise. As it ages, it develops fig, molasses, dried herbs, and earth.
The Tasting
Langhe Nebbiolo 2022 — $33.99
A vibrant, approachable introduction. Bright red fruit, lively acidity, and gentle tannins made it a standout for value.
Valtellina (Chiavennasca) 2021 — $59.99
From steep alpine terraces in Lombardy—all about elegance. Red cherry, rose petals, and herbal notes carried by taut acidity and finesse.
Barbaresco 2020 — $66.99
Perfumed with cherry, rose, and spice. Sleek tannins make it enjoyable now, though it will continue to evolve. Great match for truffled pasta, veal, or mushroom risotto.
Barolo 2020 — $68.99
The most structured of the lineup, with deep notes of tar, dark cherry, and rose. Built for aging. A classic partner for braised short ribs or aged cheeses.
Value Tip
Keep an eye out for Langhe Nebbiolo in strong vintages—much of the elegance of Barolo and Barbaresco at a fraction of the price.
All photos by Sam Hauck. Originally published on My VanCity.
